“Chanel’s Latest Modern High Jewelry Collection Was Inspired by Russia’s Imperial Past

“Chanel’s Latest Modern High Jewelry Collection Was Inspired by Russia’s Imperial Past - Yahoo Lifestyle” plus 1 more

Chanel’s Latest Modern High Jewelry Collection Was Inspired by Russia’s Imperial Past - Yahoo Lifestyle

Posted: 23 Aug 2019 12:00 AM PDT

It was the 1920s in Paris and Coco Chanel found herself enamored with the Russian cultural elite and nobility, who had fled upheaval in their homeland and brought a new sensibility to the city. That Russian spirit appeared in Chanel's 1923 collection, with long tunics, fur-lined cloaks and large belted blouses modeled after the Russian rubashka. During this period, she enlisted the czar's perfumer, Ernest Beaux, to create her iconic Chanel No. 5 perfume. The Russian influence even permeated her famous rue Cambon apartment, with specially commissioned pieces like the large mirror with a sculpted frame depicting the two-headed eagle of Imperial Russia and sheaves of wheat, a sign of the sun and good luck, forged in bronze by Robert Goossens. Chanel's fascination with Russia endured throughout her life, and today it's the impetus for the company's new high jewelry collection, Le Paris Russe de Chanel.

Unveiled at the Grand Palais during the Paris haute couture shows in July, the jewelry is a master class in symbolism and artistic technique, entirely modern even though it's rooted in the past. Among the 63 pieces, a series of necklaces and earrings in delicate diamonds and pearls echo patterned embroidery and lace, but on a large scale. A colorful headpiece features an array of gemstones in a cut-out design that is light and feminine, and big yellow diamonds represent the sun in bold rings and necklaces.

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"Gabrielle [Coco Chanel] was influenced by Russia's icons and symbolism, and we referenced those in jewelry designs that are symbolic yet feminine and stylish," says Patrice Leguéreau, who has been director of Chanel's jewelry studio for the past decade. Those motifs, along with Coco's favorite flower, the camellia, are present throughout: The double-headed eagle is the center of a regal brooch, and intricate and colorful pieces reference the costumes in Ballets Russes, which Chanel designed.

"This isn't trophy jewelry," says Leguéreau. "It's not about big stones; this is elegant, chic and feminine design. It tells a story." Over a span of more than two years, he visited Moscow and Saint Petersburg, where he spent several days exploring the Hermitage Museum, taking notes on embroidered fabrics, lace, jewelry, enamel and paintings, which also informed the new collection. It's rich in history and substance, and Coco Chanel would have loved it.

A look at Chanel's 1.5 camellia diamond jewels - The Jewellery Editor

Posted: 30 Jan 2019 12:00 AM PST

The Chanel 1.5 collection of high jewellery presented at the January 2019 Paris Haute Couture shows is a collection of 50 pieces all focussed on Mademoiselle Gabrielle's beloved camellia flower. The explanation of the neat symmetry of its name is: 'one camellia, five allures' which refers to the fact that many of the jewels can be worn in five different ways.

Chanel's 1.5 Rouge Tentation transformable ring in rose gold has a rich red spinel at its heart. The diamond-set petals around the ring can be removed to reveal a smaller ring composed of the spinel-set petals only.

Few could have failed to notice that the camellia is a recurring motif in Chanel's constant recreation of elements dear to the late Coco, who is said to have favoured the simplicity of the scentless and thorn-three camellia over other blooms for its clean-cut, all-white perfection. She was known to wear a camellia as a bright, almost jewel-like accessory against her little black dress. The fact that it was the favourite gentlemen's lapel-ornament of the day may have appealed to her subversive nature.

Chanel's Revelation Diamant white gold and diamond necklace can be worn in five different ways and the central diamond camellia flower is detachable allowing it to be worn as a brooch, on a belt or even in the hair.

The collection picks up the idea that Gabrielle wanted jewellery to be easy to wear and comfortable as expressed in this quote: 'My (jewels) are flexible and detachable [...] You can take apart the jewelry and use it to match a hat or fur. In this way, the set of jewelry is no longer an immutable object. Life transforms it and bends it to its needs.' Gabrielle's one and only fine jewellery collection 'Bijoux en Diamants' was presented in 1932, at the height of the Great Depression. A daring move and a chance for Gabrielle to bring her rebellious spirit to the most luxurious items as previously she had only designed costume jewellery. Read more here.

The collection featured diamond-set comets, lions, suns, ribbons, fringes and stars that could be worn on different parts of the body, a large articulated feather could be draped across a shoulder or worn in the hair and the jewels had no clasps or fastenings for the ease of the wearer.

Chanel's 1.5 Contraste Blanc ring spans two fingers and the emerald-cut diamond and camellia bloom appear to float above the finger.

Since that one collection – which incidentally was broken up and the diamonds sent back to the dealer – Chanel opened its fine jewellery division in 1993 and has since been bringing Gabrielle's inspirations back to life. And as transformability was one of the keys of Gabrielle's own jewels, of the 50-piece 1.5 collection, 23 of them are transformable. For example, by removing the central cluster of diamond-set petals, the Rouge Tentation ring reveals a spinel ring while the diamond petals can be added to make a small diamond Camélia brooch significantly larger. Where the fun really starts is with the necklaces. The Révèlation Diamant necklace can be worn double as a choker or as navel-grazing sautoir or with the right dress, draped down a bare back. The central diamond-set camellia can be detached and worn as a brooch or in the hair. Likewise the Rouge Incandescent necklace of nine rows of diamonds has a detachable camellia brooch with a vibrant ruby at its heart.